Unlike the other three doors which has only two cable connections to the door lock actuator mechanism (one for the external door handle and one for the internal door handle and lock) the passenger side front has a third for the keyed door lock.Īs such don't bother disconnecting the external door handle cable off the door lock actuator as shown on the video (using a small screwdriver through the door latch hole to flick off the four fingers) - leave it in place as you'll end up pulling the door lock actuator out along with the internal door parts of the external door handle mechanism. Major complication - additional cable connection from the external keyed lock to the door lock actuator mechanism: The front guide doesn't need to be touched at all and the window winder mechanism can be left inside the door and pushed out of the way similar to how the rear is treated in the video. While the Disco3 Forum guide is fairly good - there was no need to remove the front window guide or window winder mechanism from the door as they've directed. Leave the front window guide alone and the window winder mechanism inside the door: I found that with the window glass pretaped in advance, doing this I could disconnect the two white clips one after the other with one arm while lightly pulling the glass upwards with the other and so did not need a second person to help. If you have to adjust the window opening then you need to retrieve the door trim, reconnect the power window switch and the two black box (some sort of door ECU?) connections onto the door trim, power on the car to accessories and make the adjustment - so much easier to just set it right before removing the door trim in the first place. To do this though you need to have the window glass down to pretty much exactly 5"/125mm window opening - on my first attempt I had a 160mm opening and could not fit my arm into the door. The second clip is accessed by fitting your arm into the door through the speaker hole - (depending on your arm size) you will end up with you entire forearm including your elbow inside the door to reach it. The first difference is the rear doors only have one clip and the front doors have two. D4's don't have this, instead their extra screw is in the door trim on the side that would go into the door jam, there's a cap there you pop off to access it.įirst complication - separating the window from the winder mechanism:Ĭheck out D4 - Front door window glass disconnect from winder mechanismĪs shown in the video the window glass is held in place by the white clip. Behind this is a screw required to be removed to remove the door trim. As such I'll only point out the additional differences and complications below.įirst difference - no Land Rover badge on D4 door trim:ĭisco 3's have a Land Rover badge on their front door trims around where your elbow would sit. Fundamentally the video will give you the basic concept of ow to do the job and there is many similarities. The first took about an hour and a half to do and the second about an hour. This external keyed door lock ads a significant complication which results in additional work.īefore doing this door I had already replaced both my rear doors lock actuators following PowerfulUK's YouTube how to video: Return to UO Annotated ADA Accessibility Guidelines, 4.As I struggled to find information about it when I was doing mine, I thought I would pop this up to help others in the future (and remind myself if/when I have to redo it) that have to replace the door lock actuator on their D4 (and likely D3 as well) on the front passenger side door which has the external keyed door lock (for emergency access when flat battery etc.). After pushing the button, the user makes another U-turn to travel through the door after it opens. To reach the "wrong" side, a power wheelchair user with mobility on only one side must make a U-turn to approach the door actuator button while facing away from the door. The anticipated path of the wheelchair must also be clear of the door swing. This often requires placement of the actuator farther from the door than normal to allow a double U-turn as shown in the illustration, three feet minimum and four feet preferred. As with elevator call buttons, the center of the actuator should be 43" above the floor, and the placement should allow for use either by left-handed or right-handed individuals. Door operators should be large push-plates that can be actuated by a mouth-stick or a hand with limited mobility. The population most dependent on power doors usually has very limited use of their hands, often limited to one hand. Actuator Locations for Power Doors Actuator Locations for Power Doors
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